Monday, February 20, 2012

2-20 arrivederci Napoli

Our last day in Italy is coming to an end.  This was our only full day in Naples and to be honest, we could stay another day.  There is soooo much to see here.  Being so limited in time we chose to take a guided tour to Pompeii.  Great decisiion. 

Our driver picked us up from our B&B at 8:30, then drove us through the streets of Napoli during rush hour.  That alone was a thrill!  Anything you have ever seen in movies or on TV is true!!  I don't know how they do it, but in the time we were here the only accident we saw was on the autostratta (freeway).  So, we met our tour guide at the Duomo of Naples.  The cathedral has at least 5 main alters and to the left is a baptistery build in 365.  I can't begin to provide the history of this church or city.  Visiting these places makes me realize how much I don't know.  Why didn't I listen to some of those history instructors?

After the church tour we drove up to Posillip Hill, the same hillside our hosts took us to yesterday.  The view was just as beautiful today as it was yesterday.  Then back down the hill to drive past the royal palace and on to the Oriente Hotel where we picked up two guys from Canada who were heading out to Pompeii with us.

Fortunately the rain stopped before we reached Pompeii which is 30 minutes southeast of Naples.  The guided tour took us to the theater, forum, market place, house of faun, and of course the brothels.  Most of the original treasures (statutes, mosaics, pottery) have been removed from Pompeii and displayed in the Museum of History in Naples. Unfortunately we don't have the time to visit, but I wish we did.  We spent about 2 hours at the site and barely touched the place.  One could spend all day wandering through the streets of this ancient city.

We made it back to the B&B by 2ish and headed out for one final pizza.  To eat authentic Napoli pizza we would have to go down into Naples (we're in Vomero, a district on the hill above Naples) and we just weren't up for it (sorry Anna).  So we walked to a neighborhood pizzarria and ordered our pizza and vegetarian pasta.  It all was still great!  To settle our growing stomaches we walked around the neighborhood and found a little caffe for one final cappicino.  The owners were so nice.  When they found out we were from "Amerika" the husband did his best to speak english to us.  Again between broken English, Spanish & alot of sign language we had a great conversation.  After posing for pictures, we said good bye and walked back to the B&B.  Tomorrow morning will come very early 03:00.  Time for a little R&R. 

Caio. Caio.

Sunday, February 19, 2012

2-19 Napoli

We arrived in Naples after a 12 hours on the TTT ferry from Catania to Naples.  I'm so glad we checked out the marina during the daylight on Friday.  Getting there in the dark Saturday night was a cinch.  We were able to get on the ship 2.5 hours before it's 11:00 pm departure.  After getting our room key we walked around the ship and got a light snack at the snack bar.  Then off to bed.  We were in our pjs before we left port.  The mattresses on our twin beds were slightly concave to keep us in the middle.  The seas were calm and we had absolutely no problem falling asleep or sleeping 'til 6:30 am. After showering we headed back to the bar for a cappicino and pastry. 

At the terminal in Catania we shadowed a lady on to the ship.  She spoke a little english and showed us where to go on board.  Then, the next morning we saw her again while having coffee.  We spent the rest of the morning chatting with her in broken english/spanish/italian.  Her name is Clementina, she lives in Ragusa, is a retired school teacher, hast 2 daughters, 18 and another studying international business in Belguim, and had a dog named Pixel.   And she told us to be careful in Naples.

We were pleasantly surprised at the on the TTT line.  It's a cargo line that carries trucks, cars and passangers to/from Sicily to the main land.  The rooms were clean and accomodating, but nothing fancy.  I would definately recommend this mode of transportation!

We hired a taxi to the Weekend  a Napole B&B where Paulo was waiting for us.  We're staying in the Capri room - thanks for the upgrade Paulo.  After settling in, Paulo recommended a small restaurant up the street.  It's run by a local gal who learned to cook Napoli style from her grandmother.  The restaurant only has 7 tables and it is by invitation only.  So Paulo called Chef Angela and we had a table.  There are no menus, whatever is cooked for the day is what's served.  We weren't disappointed!  Fried veggies, cheese bread and fish balls.  Then a delicious lental soup, followed by a flat pasta with chick peas in what I think was a chicken sauce.  Then lasagna!!!  OUCH our tummys were sooo full.  2 hours later we were given a bottle of Fluer de Basilica - a home made concoction simular to limoncello.  OMG!!  Strong!  But it "helps the digestion"!  Finally, for dessert we were served a shot glass of chocolate syrup seased with either hazel nut or almonds.  Whatever, it was delicious!  Even Tony ate it!

Oh, I forgot.  During the meal, Angela's phone rang and she handed it to the Americanas.  It was Paulo and he and his wife wanted to personally drive us around Naples to show us their city.  WOW!  What a bonus.  So we jumped in their car and drove through the streets of Naples.  What a crazy city.  Paulo & Patricia showed us where they live - up on a cliff overlooking the bay of Naples - it is a multi-million dollar view (check out the pictures).  It was beautiful, but I'll take my view of the Pacific.

We're back in our room and it's time to shower and hit the sack.  Tomorrow we're touring Pompei.

Saturday, February 18, 2012

2-18 Enna - then on to Naples

Our time in Sicily is over and it's time to move on.   It's been a great stay.  But before we sail away on the ferry to Naples this evening we had time for a day trip to Enna, Sicily's highest city in the center of the island.  We had a grea time wondering through the castle and climbing the towers.  Then one last meal in Sicily.  We found a little restaurant, La Fontana, where we enjoyed yet another dish of pesto pasta, pizza and a final bottle of Sicilian wine.

Naples here we come!

Friday, February 17, 2012

2-17 Shopping in Catania

The skys over Catania finally cleared.  That must mean we're about to leave town.  What a fun day we had.  Juan had off and joined us for a shopping trip into Catania.  But before that I got up early to have a quick cappicino and pastry with a wonderful young lady and fellow Wisconsinite currently living in this area with her Navy husband.

I first heard of Jill while searching the internet for information on Catania/Signella for this trip.  Her blog, The Cinquecento Project, came up and I was hooked.  The week before we headed this way we exchanged emails and agreed to meet.  Unfortunately between our schedules we were only able to meet up this morning for a quick, very quick visit.  She picked me up and off we went to Motta.  Jill, I'm so glad we made the time to meet.  And I'm so happy you are living your dream of living in Italy.  I look forward to following your adventure.

After making a new friend, Tony, Juan & I bussed into Catania for a shopping trip.  Well, we didn't really buy anything except for a new cap for my husband.  But we had a wonderful time walking around Old Catania.  Just like our visits to Taormina, Caltagirone and Motta, every turn of a corner revealed another charming Sicilian street.  It's so unlike my suburban existance, I love experiencing it...but I must admit I'm beginning to miss the comforts of my home.

We grabbed some lunch just off Elephant Square (Piazza Duomo) and walked back to catch the bus back to NAS1.  Early to bed tonight.  We've got some packing to do tomorrow morning before we head to Enna during the day and then down to the Marina to catch our overnight ferry to the mainland.  Bon Voyage.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

2-16 Caleca Pottery

We're up early this morning to catch the tour bus to Patti on the northeast shore of Sicily to tour the factory and shop the outlet store of Caleca Ceramics. 

The drive to Patti was about 2.5 hours.  We just settled in to our seats and enjoyed the scenery - Mt. Etna to the left and the Ionian Sea to the right.  The skies were sunny when we left, but by the time we reached Messina the rain had started.  Regardless, we still enjoyed the ride and scenery.

Caleca Ceramics is a 250 year old company that hand makes fine pottery from start to finish.  No doubt the sole purpose of the trip is for participants to shop.  There was no formal tour set up.  But the six of us on the tour asked the bus driver to inquire about touring the factory.  We were in luck!  The tour was guided by a lady who spoke english....guess one would if he/she grew up in Milwaukee.  Yeah, the tour guide, or office manager, grew up in Milwaukee and married a Sicilian.  He didn't like the weather in Milwaukee (who does) so the family moved back to Sicily.  It's a small world.

Like I said, the pottery is manufactured from clay to shipping in this spot.  The clay is custom mixed from pulverized rock.  Then the pieces are stamped and fired into greenware.  All the pieces are hand painted by employees from the area...most are 2nd generation employees of the company.  The pieces are then glazed and shipped to the customers.  At a minimum the process takes 2 weeks.  Caleca make a specific line for Williams Sonoma (check out my pics).  Unfortunately they don't ship to the US because it is cost prohibitive.  But they will ship in EU.  Dang, I should have sent some to Deb in Amsterdam! 

We got back to our place around 3 pm.  Just in time to get a bit organized and siesta.  Our time in Sicily is coming to an end and I've gotta pack.

Juan may be working a bit late tonight.  But when he gets home I'm sure we'll head out to the Spaghetti House in Motta.

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

2-15 Motta Sant'Anastasia

After our great dining event last night we didn't get up too early this morning.  Today our objective was to see Motta Sant'Anastasia, the hillside city north of Sigonella before we returned the rental car in the afternoon.  It sure is nice having an iPhone with GPS capability.  We actually made it to the town and found parking near the castle without getting lost!

The town is on the hillside of Mt. Etna and it was COLD!  I'm sure glad I grabbed an extra jacket before leaving home last week.  I've been wearing it daily!  So we walked down one of the narrow, cobbled streets, found a "bar" and stopped for a cappacino, then proceeded up the hill to the tower/castle.  We weren't able to go into the building.  So we walked around the structures and just enjoyed the view of the countryside and crazy, crooked streets (alleys) that make up the old center of the town build on volcanic rock.

After a couple of hours we drove back to our room, cleaned out the car and then returned it to the rental office just outside the complex.  Once the paperwork was done, we walked back to the Sigonella in for a quick bite to eat and then waited for Juan to return from work.

Later in the evening we went back to Motta with Juan and a co-worker for dinner at Donna Fortuna's...more wine, more caprese, more pizza... you know the routine.

It's 10:15, we're back in our room and ready for bed.  Tomorrow morning will be early.  We're going on a ceramic's factory tour.

PS - Sorry for the overkill of street pictures.  Each corner we turned provided another photo op.

2-14 Happy Birthday Tony

Happy Valentines day to all my sweethearts!  And Happy Birthday to my husband.  Hope you're enjoying your birthday gift!

Today was a "down" day.  We did our laundry.  It sure is nice having a washer/dryer available.  So everything is clean again and we shouldn't have to do any more laundry 'til we're home.  Sure beats washing things out in the sink.

For lunch we drove down to NAS 2 for Juan's squadron BBQ.  The mechanics grilled up some brats & chicken and the gang chowed down.  Thanks for the invite.  After lunch, Tony & I drove back to our place and finished the laundry and then took a walk along the roadside.  It's a pretty busy road so we didn't walk too far.  Just far enough to snap a couple of pictures of some old buildings along the road.

After that we rested up a bit for our big night out.  At 7:30 pm we were picked up by bus and driven to the hillside town of Mazzarrone.  Arriving a 9 pm we were served a wonderful 4 course meal of local cheeses, artichokes, meats, pastas and wine.  When the dessert was finally presented (at midnight) we just rolled our eyes and went into coma!  What fun!

So back to town we went on the bus dosing on and off while keeping one eye on the bus driver...he only made one wrong turn but realized it quickly.  Our heads hit the pillow at 2 am.  But before we closed our eyes we did a quick skype chat with the Charles.  Ahhh, sleep never felt so good.