Monday, February 20, 2012

2-20 arrivederci Napoli

Our last day in Italy is coming to an end.  This was our only full day in Naples and to be honest, we could stay another day.  There is soooo much to see here.  Being so limited in time we chose to take a guided tour to Pompeii.  Great decisiion. 

Our driver picked us up from our B&B at 8:30, then drove us through the streets of Napoli during rush hour.  That alone was a thrill!  Anything you have ever seen in movies or on TV is true!!  I don't know how they do it, but in the time we were here the only accident we saw was on the autostratta (freeway).  So, we met our tour guide at the Duomo of Naples.  The cathedral has at least 5 main alters and to the left is a baptistery build in 365.  I can't begin to provide the history of this church or city.  Visiting these places makes me realize how much I don't know.  Why didn't I listen to some of those history instructors?

After the church tour we drove up to Posillip Hill, the same hillside our hosts took us to yesterday.  The view was just as beautiful today as it was yesterday.  Then back down the hill to drive past the royal palace and on to the Oriente Hotel where we picked up two guys from Canada who were heading out to Pompeii with us.

Fortunately the rain stopped before we reached Pompeii which is 30 minutes southeast of Naples.  The guided tour took us to the theater, forum, market place, house of faun, and of course the brothels.  Most of the original treasures (statutes, mosaics, pottery) have been removed from Pompeii and displayed in the Museum of History in Naples. Unfortunately we don't have the time to visit, but I wish we did.  We spent about 2 hours at the site and barely touched the place.  One could spend all day wandering through the streets of this ancient city.

We made it back to the B&B by 2ish and headed out for one final pizza.  To eat authentic Napoli pizza we would have to go down into Naples (we're in Vomero, a district on the hill above Naples) and we just weren't up for it (sorry Anna).  So we walked to a neighborhood pizzarria and ordered our pizza and vegetarian pasta.  It all was still great!  To settle our growing stomaches we walked around the neighborhood and found a little caffe for one final cappicino.  The owners were so nice.  When they found out we were from "Amerika" the husband did his best to speak english to us.  Again between broken English, Spanish & alot of sign language we had a great conversation.  After posing for pictures, we said good bye and walked back to the B&B.  Tomorrow morning will come very early 03:00.  Time for a little R&R. 

Caio. Caio.

Sunday, February 19, 2012

2-19 Napoli

We arrived in Naples after a 12 hours on the TTT ferry from Catania to Naples.  I'm so glad we checked out the marina during the daylight on Friday.  Getting there in the dark Saturday night was a cinch.  We were able to get on the ship 2.5 hours before it's 11:00 pm departure.  After getting our room key we walked around the ship and got a light snack at the snack bar.  Then off to bed.  We were in our pjs before we left port.  The mattresses on our twin beds were slightly concave to keep us in the middle.  The seas were calm and we had absolutely no problem falling asleep or sleeping 'til 6:30 am. After showering we headed back to the bar for a cappicino and pastry. 

At the terminal in Catania we shadowed a lady on to the ship.  She spoke a little english and showed us where to go on board.  Then, the next morning we saw her again while having coffee.  We spent the rest of the morning chatting with her in broken english/spanish/italian.  Her name is Clementina, she lives in Ragusa, is a retired school teacher, hast 2 daughters, 18 and another studying international business in Belguim, and had a dog named Pixel.   And she told us to be careful in Naples.

We were pleasantly surprised at the on the TTT line.  It's a cargo line that carries trucks, cars and passangers to/from Sicily to the main land.  The rooms were clean and accomodating, but nothing fancy.  I would definately recommend this mode of transportation!

We hired a taxi to the Weekend  a Napole B&B where Paulo was waiting for us.  We're staying in the Capri room - thanks for the upgrade Paulo.  After settling in, Paulo recommended a small restaurant up the street.  It's run by a local gal who learned to cook Napoli style from her grandmother.  The restaurant only has 7 tables and it is by invitation only.  So Paulo called Chef Angela and we had a table.  There are no menus, whatever is cooked for the day is what's served.  We weren't disappointed!  Fried veggies, cheese bread and fish balls.  Then a delicious lental soup, followed by a flat pasta with chick peas in what I think was a chicken sauce.  Then lasagna!!!  OUCH our tummys were sooo full.  2 hours later we were given a bottle of Fluer de Basilica - a home made concoction simular to limoncello.  OMG!!  Strong!  But it "helps the digestion"!  Finally, for dessert we were served a shot glass of chocolate syrup seased with either hazel nut or almonds.  Whatever, it was delicious!  Even Tony ate it!

Oh, I forgot.  During the meal, Angela's phone rang and she handed it to the Americanas.  It was Paulo and he and his wife wanted to personally drive us around Naples to show us their city.  WOW!  What a bonus.  So we jumped in their car and drove through the streets of Naples.  What a crazy city.  Paulo & Patricia showed us where they live - up on a cliff overlooking the bay of Naples - it is a multi-million dollar view (check out the pictures).  It was beautiful, but I'll take my view of the Pacific.

We're back in our room and it's time to shower and hit the sack.  Tomorrow we're touring Pompei.

Saturday, February 18, 2012

2-18 Enna - then on to Naples

Our time in Sicily is over and it's time to move on.   It's been a great stay.  But before we sail away on the ferry to Naples this evening we had time for a day trip to Enna, Sicily's highest city in the center of the island.  We had a grea time wondering through the castle and climbing the towers.  Then one last meal in Sicily.  We found a little restaurant, La Fontana, where we enjoyed yet another dish of pesto pasta, pizza and a final bottle of Sicilian wine.

Naples here we come!

Friday, February 17, 2012

2-17 Shopping in Catania

The skys over Catania finally cleared.  That must mean we're about to leave town.  What a fun day we had.  Juan had off and joined us for a shopping trip into Catania.  But before that I got up early to have a quick cappicino and pastry with a wonderful young lady and fellow Wisconsinite currently living in this area with her Navy husband.

I first heard of Jill while searching the internet for information on Catania/Signella for this trip.  Her blog, The Cinquecento Project, came up and I was hooked.  The week before we headed this way we exchanged emails and agreed to meet.  Unfortunately between our schedules we were only able to meet up this morning for a quick, very quick visit.  She picked me up and off we went to Motta.  Jill, I'm so glad we made the time to meet.  And I'm so happy you are living your dream of living in Italy.  I look forward to following your adventure.

After making a new friend, Tony, Juan & I bussed into Catania for a shopping trip.  Well, we didn't really buy anything except for a new cap for my husband.  But we had a wonderful time walking around Old Catania.  Just like our visits to Taormina, Caltagirone and Motta, every turn of a corner revealed another charming Sicilian street.  It's so unlike my suburban existance, I love experiencing it...but I must admit I'm beginning to miss the comforts of my home.

We grabbed some lunch just off Elephant Square (Piazza Duomo) and walked back to catch the bus back to NAS1.  Early to bed tonight.  We've got some packing to do tomorrow morning before we head to Enna during the day and then down to the Marina to catch our overnight ferry to the mainland.  Bon Voyage.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

2-16 Caleca Pottery

We're up early this morning to catch the tour bus to Patti on the northeast shore of Sicily to tour the factory and shop the outlet store of Caleca Ceramics. 

The drive to Patti was about 2.5 hours.  We just settled in to our seats and enjoyed the scenery - Mt. Etna to the left and the Ionian Sea to the right.  The skies were sunny when we left, but by the time we reached Messina the rain had started.  Regardless, we still enjoyed the ride and scenery.

Caleca Ceramics is a 250 year old company that hand makes fine pottery from start to finish.  No doubt the sole purpose of the trip is for participants to shop.  There was no formal tour set up.  But the six of us on the tour asked the bus driver to inquire about touring the factory.  We were in luck!  The tour was guided by a lady who spoke english....guess one would if he/she grew up in Milwaukee.  Yeah, the tour guide, or office manager, grew up in Milwaukee and married a Sicilian.  He didn't like the weather in Milwaukee (who does) so the family moved back to Sicily.  It's a small world.

Like I said, the pottery is manufactured from clay to shipping in this spot.  The clay is custom mixed from pulverized rock.  Then the pieces are stamped and fired into greenware.  All the pieces are hand painted by employees from the area...most are 2nd generation employees of the company.  The pieces are then glazed and shipped to the customers.  At a minimum the process takes 2 weeks.  Caleca make a specific line for Williams Sonoma (check out my pics).  Unfortunately they don't ship to the US because it is cost prohibitive.  But they will ship in EU.  Dang, I should have sent some to Deb in Amsterdam! 

We got back to our place around 3 pm.  Just in time to get a bit organized and siesta.  Our time in Sicily is coming to an end and I've gotta pack.

Juan may be working a bit late tonight.  But when he gets home I'm sure we'll head out to the Spaghetti House in Motta.

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

2-15 Motta Sant'Anastasia

After our great dining event last night we didn't get up too early this morning.  Today our objective was to see Motta Sant'Anastasia, the hillside city north of Sigonella before we returned the rental car in the afternoon.  It sure is nice having an iPhone with GPS capability.  We actually made it to the town and found parking near the castle without getting lost!

The town is on the hillside of Mt. Etna and it was COLD!  I'm sure glad I grabbed an extra jacket before leaving home last week.  I've been wearing it daily!  So we walked down one of the narrow, cobbled streets, found a "bar" and stopped for a cappacino, then proceeded up the hill to the tower/castle.  We weren't able to go into the building.  So we walked around the structures and just enjoyed the view of the countryside and crazy, crooked streets (alleys) that make up the old center of the town build on volcanic rock.

After a couple of hours we drove back to our room, cleaned out the car and then returned it to the rental office just outside the complex.  Once the paperwork was done, we walked back to the Sigonella in for a quick bite to eat and then waited for Juan to return from work.

Later in the evening we went back to Motta with Juan and a co-worker for dinner at Donna Fortuna's...more wine, more caprese, more pizza... you know the routine.

It's 10:15, we're back in our room and ready for bed.  Tomorrow morning will be early.  We're going on a ceramic's factory tour.

PS - Sorry for the overkill of street pictures.  Each corner we turned provided another photo op.

2-14 Happy Birthday Tony

Happy Valentines day to all my sweethearts!  And Happy Birthday to my husband.  Hope you're enjoying your birthday gift!

Today was a "down" day.  We did our laundry.  It sure is nice having a washer/dryer available.  So everything is clean again and we shouldn't have to do any more laundry 'til we're home.  Sure beats washing things out in the sink.

For lunch we drove down to NAS 2 for Juan's squadron BBQ.  The mechanics grilled up some brats & chicken and the gang chowed down.  Thanks for the invite.  After lunch, Tony & I drove back to our place and finished the laundry and then took a walk along the roadside.  It's a pretty busy road so we didn't walk too far.  Just far enough to snap a couple of pictures of some old buildings along the road.

After that we rested up a bit for our big night out.  At 7:30 pm we were picked up by bus and driven to the hillside town of Mazzarrone.  Arriving a 9 pm we were served a wonderful 4 course meal of local cheeses, artichokes, meats, pastas and wine.  When the dessert was finally presented (at midnight) we just rolled our eyes and went into coma!  What fun!

So back to town we went on the bus dosing on and off while keeping one eye on the bus driver...he only made one wrong turn but realized it quickly.  Our heads hit the pillow at 2 am.  But before we closed our eyes we did a quick skype chat with the Charles.  Ahhh, sleep never felt so good.

Monday, February 13, 2012

2-13 Caltagirone -Scala Santa Maria del Monte

Locals say February is the coldest month of the year.  And I'll back them on that!  It was cold, but we bundled up and headed out for another road trip - this time we headed south.

Juan had to work, so Tony & I rented a car and headed down the 417 to the hilltop town of Caltagirone.  Our goal was to climb the  142 steps of Scala Santa Maria del Monte.  We did it!  After soaking in the views we headed back down to walk through the streets & piazzas. 

We tried to find the tourist ino office to get a map of the city.  No luck.  After passing a group of labors working on a building front for the 3rd time one asked what we were looking for.  We were able to communicate and he showed us the door to the info center only to tell us it was closed!  By then we had worked up and apetite so we asked the "guys" for a restaurant suggestion.  They suggested a restaurant at the foot of the stairs. 

We welcomed the warmth of the restaurant.  By then the sun was completely hidden behind the clouds.  The food was great - Bruscetta, caprese salad and a combination plate that included spaghetti, salad and the hottest, saltiest french fries I've ever tasted!  We finished up with a cappacino and headed out to find the car we left in a parking lot some were on the ring of the city.

On our way back to our residence we stopped at the base and joined Juan who was still working.  He gave us a tour of the base, including a ride around the runways.  We then toured the hanger (no pics from that) and later got to witness the landing of a drone- no pics from that either.

We're back in our rooms, enjoying a glass of wine and some peanuts...kinda like being at home!

Sunday, February 12, 2012

2-12 Valley of the Temples

Well, we were up earlier this morning.  We had to meet the tour bus on base at 8:30 a.m.  Juan booked a tour to Agrigento's Valley of the Temples and dinner at a Sicilian winery, Bagliesi.  It was a great day!

The drive over to the southwest quarter of Sicily took about 2.5 hours.  Our first stop was Valley of the Temples, a Greek colony built around 580 BC and later seiged by the Romans around 200 BC.  Old stuff and amazingly the best preserved Greek temple in the world.  We had a guided tour (Temple Building 101)through the acropolis of Agrigento.  These structures were built before the birth of Christ!

After some great photo ops the bus delivered us to the Bagliei Winery for a "light" lunch and wine tasting.  The "light" lunch began with a buffet of  hor derves (cheese, salad, frittata, veggies, focaccia, etc), followed by the best italian sausage I've evern eaten,  then on to Sicilian orange slices sprinkled in fresh pistachio, and ice cream.

After a great afternoon we jumped back on the bus for the ride back to camp.  Off to bed we go.  Tomorrow Juan returns to work and Tony and I are venturing out alone.

Saturday, February 11, 2012

2-11 Taormina

Mt. Etna is still hiding from us on day 3 in Sicily.  The stubborn cloud cover just doesn't want to leave.  Hopefully the rain tonight will clear things up for tomorrow.

We got started a bit earlier this morning - 9am.  Juan picked us up and we drove over to the base to get guest passes for Tony & myself.  We did a quick tour of the base, hit the money wall and then headed out to Taormina, a small costal town north of Catania. 

We found our way to the town with no problem, parked the car, then hiked up to the town's main street.  Our first stop was a cafe for some cappacino and a few pasteries.  Then we moved on to Teatro Greco, an ancient theater on the edge (literally) of town. We took in the beautiful costal views and walked through the ruins marveling and asking "How did they build this back then". 

The benefits of traveling off season is that there were no tourists.  During the summer the main pedestrian street, Corso Umberto, is shoulder to shoulder people.  Today, with the exception of a few locals and sprinkle of additional tourists, we were the only people in town.  It was wonderful!  We walked through the town, stopping at the piazzas to enjoy the views.  On the way back to the car we stopped at a small sandwich shop for a quick bite to eat and then headed back to the base.  Good timing, it was starting to rain.  Guess we won't be seeing Mt. Etna on the way back either.

Back on base we decided to see a movie - Tom Cruise's latest Mission Impossible movie.  We were a pleasantly surprised and enjoyed the show.  Before calling it a day we stop at the Days Inn restaurant across from the base for a calzone, pizza and caprese salad.  We're heading to bed early tonight.  Tomorrow morning we're taking a tour to Agrigento to see the Valley of the Temples.

Friday, February 10, 2012

2-10 Friday in Sicily

What can I say - we slept 'til 12:30 today.  Actually we woke up at 7:45 to the rap music next door.  But the occupant left for work and the music stopped.  So we slipt back into slumber and woke again after noon.  Ahhhhhh....vacation.

So we got up, and walked through the street of Sigonella.  That took us 15 minutes.  Then we walked back to the Sigonella Inn and had lunch at the restaurant.  Tony had tomato spaghetti served in a parmesan cheese shell.  DELICIOUS!!!   I had lasagna - different from what we're served in the states, but still - DELICIOUS!!

When we finished meal, the waiter brought two Sicilian oranges to our table.  They had just been delivered from a local farmer (we saw the box delivered through the front door).  It was so juicy and sweet.  It had a hint of red coloring through the meat and the peel.  The orange gets it's distinct flavor from the soils of Mount Etna.  It was a wonderful treat.

We walked back to our lodging and rested 'til Tony returned from work.  Then we drove to Motta to have dinner at the Spaghetti House.  It was great to see Tony recognized by the propietor.  We had bruscetta and pesto spaghetti washed down with the wonderful house wine.

As we finished our meal, , the proprietor, (name forgotten at this time) took my hand and gave me a gift saying "this is for you".  It was a little shot glass with the restaurant name on it.  What a nice gesture welcoming us into his restaurant.  Now, I know his gesture was business based, however, as a customer, and visitor to his country, he made us feel welcome.

After dinner we walked next door for some canolli - a pastry shell with rocotta cheese stuffing.  Tony knew the proprietor (Antonillo) who works at one of the NAS (Naval Air Station) bases.  The shop is run by Antonillo's wife.  The pastry shop also has home made gellato (yes, home made) and Antonillo promised to have some ready for us on Wednesday night.  Guess I know where I' ll be eating on Wednesday.  So after some wonderful conversation, we took our canolli and proceeded down the hillside to our lodging.

Back at our lodging we enjoyed the cannolli and skyped with some of the folks back in the States.  Time for bed.  Tomorrow we're off to Taromina!

Don't forget to check out the pictures in the photo link to the right!!!

Thursday, February 9, 2012

2-9 We've Arrived!!

After 25 hours we've arrived in Sicily!! The fourth flight of our adventure touched down in Catania at 6:30 (9:30am CA time) Thursday evening. Tony and his roommate, Ryan were waiting for us at the airport.

First, a bit about the trip. Flights were great! None of the flights were full. In fact, the flight from Dulles to Munich was so empty in our section that we moved seats and were able to stretch out in multiple seats for the 8.5 hour flight. The flights were good and the connections were great! The only thing that really bummed us out was our 5 hour layover at the Naples airport. Unfortunately we weren't able to check in and wait at the gate because the Air Italy policy is to not check anyone in prior to 1.5 from the flight. So Tony & I found a place to stretch out andwait.

But we made it. Juan had already picked up the keys to our room for the next 10 days so we dropped off our luggage andheaded to the Sigonella Inn for Pizza and wine. Yum, Yum and Yum.

Then we walked back to the room, unpacked a bit and now we're ready to hit the sack. Well, Tonys's a bit ahead of me. I wanted to let all of you know that we arrived in Sicily.

For those of you who don't know, Europe is having one of the coldest winters in history. We flew from Munich to Naples crossing over Venice. And once we hit the main land, everything was snow covered. Not just spots, but EVERYTHING. The flight attendant on our final flight said this has been a record year for snow. She's originally from Verona, which usually gets some winter snow, but she's never seen this amount. The land was snow covered until we crossed over a mountain range just north of Naples.

The weather in Catania is cool - 40's in the night, but the days should be up into the 60s. Great touring weather.

So, we're planning to sleep in. Juan has to work until 7. Then we'll head out for dinner! YUM!


Here's the link to my pictures:
Sicily 2012

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

We're Checked In

Just checked us in for our flights. So this is what T & I will be doing for 25 hours beginning at 8 a.m. tomorrow:

Flight date: Wed, Feb 8, 2012
Flight number: United 970
Departing: 7:54 AM San Diego International Airport (SAN)
Arriving: 3:40 PM Dulles International (IAD)

Flight date: Wed, Feb 8, 2012
Flight number: United 902
Departing: 5:31 PM Dulles International (IAD)
Arriving: 7:35 AM Munchen (MUC)

MUC 09:15 AM - NAP 10:50 AM
Flight date: Thur, Feb 98, 2012
Flight number: Lufthansa 1926
Departing: MUC 09:15 AM (That's midnight in SD)
Arriving: NAP 10:50 AM

Oh wait, that's not all. We'll be hanging out at the Naples airport for 5 hours then catching an Air Italy flight to Catania which is scheduled to arrive at 18:10(11 am Thursday in SD). Needless to say we won't be doing too much on Friday. But on Saturday - Taormino here we come!

Another Adventure

It's the day before departure and we're ready. I won't remember what we've forgotten until we're on the plane. No worries, we're on vacation! A real VACATION!

Damn, the dog just puked. Sorry Roxz, we're still going.

From Sicily 2012